Allen Edmonds: Lasts and Widths, Goodyear Welts and Recrafting Explained

Allen Edmonds makes men's dress shoes, boots and casual shoes, best known for its Goodyear-welted construction and classic models such as the Park Avenue cap-toe oxford.

These are not cheap shoes, so an Allen Edmonds order goes well when you size by last and width, choose the right model and leather for how you will wear them, and plan on recrafting rather than replacing.

Sizing by last and width

Allen Edmonds builds each shoe on a last, the foot-shaped form that sets its shape and fit. Different Allen Edmonds models use different lasts, so your size can vary between them.

Allen Edmonds also offers many models in several widths, from narrow through D, the standard width, to wide options such as E and EEE. That is one of the best reasons to buy from Allen Edmonds, and one of the easiest things to get wrong.

If you know your size in one Allen Edmonds model, check the product page for how the new model's last compares. Where unsure, use a Brannock device measurement for length and width.

Dress shoes should be snug across the instep with a little room at the toe. They will not stretch much in length, but leather gives slightly across the width.

Choosing the right model

The Park Avenue, a plain cap-toe oxford with closed lacing, is the most formal Allen Edmonds shoe. It suits suits, weddings and business wear.

Derbies, with open lacing, are more versatile and suit a higher instep. Allen Edmonds brogues, wingtips and loafers step down in formality.

For a first pair, many buyers choose a dark brown or black cap-toe that works with most tailoring. Specialised colours and styles come later.

Loafers need the closest fit of any Allen Edmonds style, because there are no laces to take up slack. Many wearers go a half size down from their oxford size; check the fit notes on the model.

Allen Edmonds boots are built to the same standard. Check whether a boot model uses a leather or rubber sole before choosing one for wet weather.

Leathers and soles

Most Allen Edmonds shoes are calfskin, which polishes well and ages with a patina. Suede is softer and less formal, and needs a protector spray and a brush.

Shell cordovan, from the horse hide, is a premium leather found on some Allen Edmonds models. It rolls rather than creases and lasts for decades, at a much higher price.

Leather soles are traditional and breathe well but wear faster and can be slippery at first. Rubber soles grip better and suit daily commuting in wet weather.

Goodyear welts and recrafting

A Goodyear welt stitches the upper to a strip of leather, the welt, which is then stitched to the sole. That means the sole can be removed and replaced without damaging the upper.

Allen Edmonds offers a recrafting service that replaces soles and heels, refinishes the uppers and returns the shoes much refreshed. Check the current Allen Edmonds recrafting prices and turnaround on the site.

Recrafting is where the value of Allen Edmonds shows. A well-kept pair can be resoled several times, which spreads the cost over many years.

Send shoes for recrafting before the wear reaches the welt. Once the welt is damaged, the job is harder and costs more.

Caring for Allen Edmonds shoes

Cedar shoe trees are the most useful accessory. They hold the shape, absorb moisture and reduce creasing. Put them in straight after wearing.

Rotate pairs so each has a day to dry out. Wearing the same Allen Edmonds shoes daily shortens their life.

Clean and condition calf leather regularly, and polish to protect it. Allen Edmonds sells care kits matched to its leathers.

Let wet Allen Edmonds shoes dry naturally with the trees in, away from radiators. Direct heat cracks leather and can loosen the welt stitching.

Sales, factory seconds and timing

Allen Edmonds prices are highest at launch and in the main collection. Discounts come through seasonal sales and outlet-style offers.

Allen Edmonds has historically run large sales a few times a year, including around the holidays. Check the current sale calendar.

Factory seconds are shoes with small cosmetic flaws, sold for less. They are a good way to try Allen Edmonds, but check the returns terms, which can differ.

Where the Allen Edmonds savings are

The 25% code is the strongest for most Allen Edmonds orders. On anything over $400 it beats $100 off.

The $100 code is aimed at boots. On a single pair of Allen Edmonds boots under $400, it is the best of the three.

The $60 code, by its name, likely suits the Park Avenue. Check the terms before building an order around it.

Allen Edmonds codes usually exclude sale items, factory seconds, recrafting and gift cards, and one code applies per order.

Common questions

Do Allen Edmonds shoes run true to size?

It depends on the last. Check the model's fit notes and use your Brannock size.

Can Allen Edmonds shoes be resoled?

Yes. Goodyear welting allows resoling, and Allen Edmonds offers recrafting.

Which Allen Edmonds shoe is most formal?

The Park Avenue cap-toe oxford.